Romana Frock Coat (blue version) calico fittings

I’m working on the blue version of the Romana Frock Coat for a client’s wife, and so far I have made the first calico test for fitting to see how my pattern is coming together.

I have kept it fairly basic, just blocking in the main body shape; hem length; pocket positions; sleeve length; and bust fitting (see right).

The proof now will be in how well it fits. I am ideally aiming for the front edges to butt together, defining the centre front for me.

Well, I got some photos back from the first fitting and there’s some good new and some bad news!

The sleeves are the right length, and it is fitting across the shoulders and across the back.
I am especially happy with how the back of the coat is fitting. It has a nice flare to the skirt and the upper back is shaping well.

The work I have done so far on the bust needs some further adjustment as it is gaping a bit, but given the radical size change I have undergone to get to this point, I can’t expect a perfect fit straight away. After all, that’s what this round of fittings are there to resolve.

So I went back to my pattern, and made the necessary changes to the front and bust area.
From his I quickly knocked together a revised calico of just the body, since the sleeves and pocket placements were fine.

This time around there was a notable improvement on fit, with the centre front meeting at the bust level, but I just need to re-angle it to hand vertically, which is no big problem.

I think we had reached a point where the final pattern could be drafted and the coat made.

I’m looking forward to cutting some cloth at last - it’s been a while to get to this stage!

Romana Frock Coat
cutting and assembly